So it’s a tricorder.
Basically, except that last part, Tricorders were all rounded edges and smooth surfaces, no good for back scratching. Well that, and I still have to do a lot of the math myself - or, more realistically considering my skills, using another device.
We’ve been watching a lot of This Old House and now I’m thinking about converting to radiant floor heating. I don’t think it would be a huge infrastructure change since we currently have hot water base board heat. Lots of PEX tubing and crawling around my crawl space though. It would also add the ability to zonify the house.
My only thing to say is be careful with the PEX tubing. In my experience it has a tendency to leak at seams no matter how carefully you install it.
I’ve been thinking about accomplishing this in a very old-school way, by replacing my shitty-ass wood furnace with a high-efficiency woodstove. Since my basement is basically one open room that corresponds to 3/4 of the house, it seems plausible.
Cory and I have been house hunting, found a place we really like on Monday, made an offer Tuesday, and today it was accepted!!
It’s good timing too, as my landlord is kicking us out June 30th so he can move his 22 year old stepson out of his house and into ours… that’s another story.
Being a Landlord can SUUUUUCCCCKKKK
I got the call today: the cylinder on my chainsaw is fucked.
NEW CHAINSAW SHOPPING.
Homeownership: it’s like that.
Also, congrats @eggs!
I highly recommend this model. I have a lot of experience with it. It has never failed to start. Always gets the job done. Cuts through everything. Never jams. Never even needs to refuel.
Store pickup only, but it’s a Hell of a deal.
It’s pretty loud. You like metal though, right? Though I think not even doom music could drown that thing out.
I was shocked at how loud an actual chainsaw is. No media correctly conveys this to its audience.
I’m thinking about the Echo CS-590. Good price, lots of power (a 60 cc engine making ~3.8 horses, which is a nice upgrade from the Husqy 350 I’m replacing), and the most cost-effective saw I can find that can drive a 24" bar. Not that I need 24" of bar all the time, but it’s good to have that capacity for some of the large-diameter things I’ll have to tackle, and might come in handy if I ever go crazy and buy a chainsaw mill.
But Stihl has some really great efficiency improvements, and Husqvarna is really reliable. So I dunno, there’s a lot to consider.
I would also suggest having a look at an electric chain saw. They are way quieter, and much lighter weight.
How many metal bands are named “Electric Chainsaw”?
I have a like half size electric chainsaw. And 2 batteries for it. Every time I use it I seem to get my job done RIGHT as my battery runs out. It’s also got the disadvantage that as the battery drains the saw itself loses power making it succumb to resistance more often as the job wears on.
Other than that it’s a treat.
I’m still personally a fan of plugged in electric things over battery. The torque of 120VAC is nuts.
How about a handheld cutting laser. Well, that would have to be pretty powerful, so maybe mount it to a glove. A power glove.
If you really want more power, there’s really only one way to go.
Lol at the exhaust pipes.
I wish more electric tools gave full specs rather than me having to aproximate motor power based on battery capacity and run times.
I don’t know that there are many tools doing this, but I see no reason why you couldn’t use high discharge batteries to make a battery powered tool that has more power than a plugin one (at least in 110V 15A socket world.)