Take care of your goddamn skin & hair hype thread

on hair ties, I like the silicone kind (my hair is thick & breaks almost everything. There are even glow in the dark ones.) or the fabric kind (these wear out but are kind to hair). Also horn pins are great if you have enough length for a bun.

on hair product, I had a lot of trouble finding good stuff in America. Most of it is either too harsh, too expensive, or really drying.
Here, these were really good even on my mixed long bleached & short virgin hair, but for some reason they are 2-3x the price in USD:

https://www.amazon.com/Cosmeist-Inc-Smooth-Fruits-Treatment/dp/B07D5L1XY9
Your best bet would be:

  1. Figure out your hair type. I’m guessing you’re somewhere in the 1B-2B range. I am 1A-B. What is your porosity?
  2. Check reddit & other forums for recommendations in that type. Avoid recs that work for people with chemically treated hair as those have different requirements. Read this blog to understand your ingredient label & avoid marketing hype.
  3. My guess is go sulfate & silicone free (I found that silicone has really lovely results for a while, but becomes a devil’s bargain). For you in particular, avoid “volumizing” (usually drying) or “repairing” (lots of protein) lines, lean towards “smoothing” lines. You may want “moisturizing” depending.
  4. Drugstore brands can have a lot of promise and inconsistent follow through. Korean & Japanese brands are becoming more accessible. Amazon and (to some extent – there is a significant bias towards products that smell like dessert??) MakeupAlley are your friends. Also CosDNA to look up ingredients.
  5. Buy samples/travel size first. Swap with people on reddit. Don’t end up with a hair products graveyard. It’s often trial & error at first, sorry.
  6. Don’t just go for the cheapest or most expensive thing, but pay attention to ingredients. What kind of surfactant does it use & does your scalp get tight, dry, oily or flaky after? What kind of moisture or protein does it use & does your hair feel heavy/greasy later? Does your hair seem to fall out more or less after switching? Is your hair crunchy – use less film forming humectant (if it’s tangly, maybe need more). Do you need more or less protein? Do I need oil & how much / what kind?
  7. Brands:
    7a.I’ve had good results with: Giovanni, Pureology, Matrix, Aussie, Loreal Ever*, Neutrogena, Nexxus
    7b. I’ve had mixed results with: Garnier Fructis, OGX, Tresemme, Jason
    7c. I’ve had terrible results with** : Pantene (how to go bald), Herbal Essences***, Vo5, Suave
    ** I haven’t tried these recently, they have definitely worked to improve some of their products.
    *** Some of their newer products like this one actually look promising, albeit low on emollients and high on film-forming humectants – basically at risk of making hair crunchy depending on the hair.
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When you say “invisible bumps” do you mean they are completely skin-colored? Can you only feel them with your fingers or do they catch the light at the right angle?

So I’ve recently done a huge changeover in the products I’m using. The reason being that I’ve begun approaching my eczema (which flared up from near-dormancy after repeated hand sanitizer use & handwashing) as possibly being malassezia related. The driving idea behind this is that my eczema flareups and SD flareups almost always coincide, Malassezia is a suspected eczema culprit for some people (e.g. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4484996/), and products that were Malassezia-safe didn’t seem to trigger my skin the way unsafe (especially oil containing) products did.

Unfortunately, most of the products I was using, including my faves, aren’t Malassezia safe T_T Here are my switch outs, and feelings about them:
(I had to manually resize the images because lightbox was being inconsistent. fuck u discourse)

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Cleanse: CosRX LowPH Good Morning Gel Cleanser :green_heart: :arrow_right: Purito Defense Barrier :man_shrugging:

tl;dr: I'll try switching back after my hand isn't angy

The Purito is basically a gentler version of the CosRX. I have mixed feelings about the switch since I don’t have any issues with the CosRX on my face (just my hands). I think it is too gentle for me, but would be great for someone with non-oily skin. I particularly noticed an increase sebaceous filaments after switching.

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Toner: NEOGEN Dermology Real Ferment Micro Essence :man_shrugging: :arrow_right: iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Toner :+1:

tl;dr: wallet is happier

I switched this one just because of cost. I try to stick to products in the $10-20 range, and the ingredients list on the iUNIK was decent. It does what I want it to: applied immediately after cleansing or chemical exfoliation it calms and hydrates my skin nicely so I don’t get tight dry skin. It foams a little more than the Neogen, but sinks in quickly. I think next purchase I will compare with the Purito Unscented Centella Toner which uses 10% centella extract versus 20% “leaf water”.

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Serum: Purito Centella Unscented Serum :green_heart: :arrow_right: iUNIK Propolis Vitamin Synergy Serum :-1:

tl;dr: i miss u puritooo

NGL, the packaging on the iUNIK is gorgeous (I will be refilling it with other products for sure) & it has a solid ingredients list. But it is way too hydrating for my skin, especially in this summer heat, and I end up getting oily. This would be a much better choice for winter or if your skin is generally drier. This could be due to AC use or putting MCT oil on my hands, I will continue testing with more controls. It is nice & soothing on my eczema though :expressionless:.The Purito has a bit of a zingy, almost painful, but not irritating feel. It is excellent at letting me forget I have oily skin; when I don’t use it, I get some whiteheads, when I do use it, my skin looks and feels really good the next morning. It is also moisturizing enough I have not needed additional moisturizing or hydrating layers. I’ve experimented with switching back & just trying to avoid getting it on my hands. I also purchased a mini of the iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum, which I have not yet tried on my face, but it does not seem nearly as hydrating as the Purito, and it also relies on leaf water rather than extract.

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Occlusive: CosRX Oil Free Ultra-Moisturizing Lotion with Birch Sap :green_heart: :arrow_right: iUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream :question: UPDATE :+1:

tl;dr: UPDATE: It's a decent swap

Both the Purito & iUNIK serums are sufficient in this summer heat, so I am not using an occlusive on my face. I might be getting reactively oily because of using AC to deal with this 36+ degree weather. I have been using the iUNIK on my hand & it seems to be decent. The CosRX is not Malassezia safe, so I can’t compare them in that regard. Buuut, I think the CosRX is better. I tried the iUNIK cream on my face today, and it has a great lightweight texture with a velvety finish that works well for oily skin. I wish it had birch sap, but I’m happy it has centella & it feels like a good swap.

Things I’m still using:
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CosRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid: It’s a bit strong for my face, so I rinse it off after letting it sit a few min & my skin is definitely smoother. Also works nicely to remove dead skin from my eczema.
CosRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid: Helps with the sebaceous filaments, especially since I’ve switched to a cleanser without BHA. Sucks the oil right from my skin though, so must avoid contact with eczema.
Melano CC Intensive Anti-spot Essence: I mix this into my toner step in the morning, on sunny days. Direct application seems to cause whiteheads or peeling.
Petitfee Black Pearl & Gold Eye Patch: These continue to be great when I am super tired although I haven’t needed them as much when I use the Purito serum. In fact, despite their intense fragrance, I have convinced several people to buy them after trying them.
Banila Co Clean It Zero Purity Cleansing Balm: This is not malassezia safe & I have to thoroughly wash my hands after using it. It’s just really good at pulling the grits from my pores and an absolute must use after sunscreen.
Dear Klairs Soft Airy UV Essence: Also not malassezia safe, but I try to avoid getting it on my hands. It definitely increases my sebum production. I am going to try the Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun next, which is very similar but has centella.

Other changes, relating to my eczema:
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I’ve begun using the Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion (refill pouch) to hydrate my eczema, combined with MCT oil (the only safe Malassezia oil) and the Hada Labo Gokujyun Perfect Gel (refill pouch) for emollient & occlusive. I’m also washing my hands with low PH soaps :soap:, regularly removing all dead skin flakes using AHA (seems to reduce the itching and recurrence), and switched to a shampoo with miconazole (also made by Rohto & from a refill pouch) which has absolutely helped with the SD but the smell :sob:. It appears to be healing and not returning to weeping stage, with significantly less itching, but dries out very easily and needs reapplication after any contact with water. I’ve had to use lidocaine to handle when I just can’t get it to stop itching and I need to sleep, since since my prescription fluocinonide ointment is fully occlusive and that just makes the itching worse.

Conclusion: The main thing that stands out to me about the iUNIK are the glass dropper bottles, which I will reuse for the Purito stuff (which comes in plastic, too bad no refill pouch). CosRX, Purito, and Rohto continue to be great budget friendly winners with solid ingredients and results. The iUNIK toner is good (although I still want to compare with the Purito toner), and the cream is a good swap for CosRX’s oil-free lotion if malassezia is an issue. For my face I am regularly using between 3-5 products per day plus sunscreen when going outside. I still have the other products I mentioned in previous posts, and while they are good, I probably won’t need to use them until winter, at which point I’ll consider whether to repurchase.

that was a long post!

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Oh! Malassezia is what my doctor suspected caused an angry dermatitis around a minor foot infection I had a while back. I had an infection, and then had an allergic reaction to the bandage adhesive. The oil-based moisturizer he told me to use on the whole thing caused an atopic dermatitis on top of all that, and it was basically just a mess for almost a month.

The doctor was mystified. Years later I broke my toe, and had a reaction to the tape adhesive. The whole cycle was about to start again, and the doctor was like “OH! I know what’s up! Skip the moisturizer, here’s cortisone instead” and I was good.

The complicating factor is that I remember learning later that the moisturizer was also known to cause light sensitivity in skin… I didn’t care to test that, so I’ve just avoided moisturizers since. I should try some of these out.

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sezia.co is a decent site for putting in ingredient lists & getting a quick result whether any ingredients aren’t safe. it is rather picky about formatting though, and doesn’t let you know which ingredients it didn’t recognize, which is annoying. there’s also https://folliculitisscout.com/ which will let you know if it doesn’t recognize something. Pretty much any oil, apart from MCT oil, will result in a flareup. The stuff Kate posted is really good :+1:

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I basically only need them when I suffer from sports-induced dry skin (e.g., windburn) or get an injury that I have to keep the surrounding skin moist for. But I want to have something in my medical kit for that specific purpose.

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That’s cool. My doctor suggested washing any wounds I get on my right leg with Selsun Blue for similar reasons.

(Aside, my adhesive sensitivity is only on my right leg. For mystery reasons, but possibly related to a cellulitis I got there a while back. I appear to have a localized sensitivity to both fungus and adhesives where I had that one infection, but nowhere else).

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ketoconazole is the gold standard for malassezia. sadly can’t get it here without prescription, which I don’t feel like finding a new dematologist rn.

I have a bunch of papers I plan to dig into on essential oil MIC comparisons to see if I can boost my MCT.

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The Purito serum is SO GOOD and reasonably priced for how many boxes it checks (It’s usually $14 for me on YS). I’m glad it’s working for you too!

Here is the manufacture site for the Rohto Hada Labo UV you listed with some google magic for you english speakers: Google Translate

How is the CosRX snail for you & how does it fit into your routine? I’ve had that on wishlist for a while, but I’m trying to reduce the number of products I need. Looks like your skin is dryer than mine, since I don’t need any oils.

Oh yeah, if you’re using YesStyle, we should swap reward codes. It’s 2% off for non-first purchases & we can earn reward for each other!

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i’ve heard some people with fair skin do have poorer results with chemical sunscreens. You may want to go full mineral.

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Quick updates:
My skin is settling into the swaps. Some products went much faster than expected, because they were being used for my hands in addition and being shared with my partner.

  1. Repurchased the Purito Serum – it’s irreplaceable.
    Reason: The tea tree serum isn’t bad, but doesn’t feel as active. I continued using the Purito while being careful to avoid eczema contact.
  2. Repurchased the iUNIK tea tree toner instead of switching to the Purito Toner
    Reason: my skin benefits from the tea tree, but I was getting it previously from the cosRX cleanser and lotion which were swapped out. I also continued using the Purito serum above, so the toner was more redundant.
  3. Repurchased the iUNIK Gel Cream.
    Reason: it has a nice matte finish, is effective, and lasts the whole day/night. Skin gets reactively oily unless I use it.
  4. Purchased the Rosette Gommage Gel in a drugstore here (~$3) for physical exfoliation once a week. I’m getting great results & seeing my texture smooth more quickly and with less irritation than with CosRX AHA.
  5. Purchased Squalane (sugarbeet-derived) to use with the Hyaluronic Acid lotion on my hands. This has made a big difference.
  6. I’m trying to find a use for the propolis serum, perhaps it will be more useful to me in the winter, since it was just too moisturizing in the summer.

My routine is simplifying nicely. Wash face, one of AHA/BHA/Gommage as needed, Toner x2, Serum, (eye cream as it gets cooler), Gel Cream, Sunscreen before going out.

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Since the season change, I reintroduced some of the more hydrating products:

  1. Mebika Moist Lotion rice toner
  2. iUnik Propolis serum (mixing with Vitamin C & snail for mornings only)
  3. mixing the Hada Labo Premium Hyaluronic acid into the iUnik Tea Tree Toner

I’ve also added the same CosRx Advanced 96 Snail Mucin @anon81580706 mentioned, which probably has had the most signifiant impact – highly recommend.

Things I will use up & not repurchase:

  1. CosRx BHA – this Purito BHA Dead Skin Moisture Gel is more effective and simultaneously less harsh.
  2. Hada Labo Perfect Gel – this is TOO moisturizing for my face, even in winter. If I’ve been neglectful and need a serious boost, I’ll put a drop on. I haven’t needed it on my eczema since using snail & squalane.
  3. Dear Klairs UV – Going to keep looking for something that responds better with my skin.
  4. Banila Clean it Zero – I’m almost out of this. I find I only need it to remove sunscreen if I’ve been exfoliating properly & regularly. I think it minorly increases witeheads. I enjoy the way oil cleansing pulls things out, so I have mixed feelings.
  5. Purito Galacto Ferment serum – with the Centella serum and the rice toner, this is pretty unnecessary, and I observe very little difference with/out using it.
  6. Yumepirika All in One – this is also too moisturizing for me, and causes a little breaking out.

Regarding sunscreen, this video was recently released which I think helps explain the inconsistent results some people have been getting:
https://youtu.be/jw-9Jphc_cM

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