So I’ve recently done a huge changeover in the products I’m using. The reason being that I’ve begun approaching my eczema (which flared up from near-dormancy after repeated hand sanitizer use & handwashing) as possibly being malassezia related. The driving idea behind this is that my eczema flareups and SD flareups almost always coincide, Malassezia is a suspected eczema culprit for some people (e.g. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4484996/), and products that were Malassezia-safe didn’t seem to trigger my skin the way unsafe (especially oil containing) products did.
Unfortunately, most of the products I was using, including my faves, aren’t Malassezia safe T_T Here are my switch outs, and feelings about them:
(I had to manually resize the images because lightbox was being inconsistent. fuck u discourse)
Cleanse: CosRX LowPH Good Morning Gel Cleanser Purito Defense Barrier
tl;dr: I'll try switching back after my hand isn't angy
The Purito is basically a gentler version of the CosRX. I have mixed feelings about the switch since I don’t have any issues with the CosRX on my face (just my hands). I think it is too gentle for me, but would be great for someone with non-oily skin. I particularly noticed an increase sebaceous filaments after switching.
Toner: NEOGEN Dermology Real Ferment Micro Essence iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Toner
tl;dr: wallet is happier
I switched this one just because of cost. I try to stick to products in the $10-20 range, and the ingredients list on the iUNIK was decent. It does what I want it to: applied immediately after cleansing or chemical exfoliation it calms and hydrates my skin nicely so I don’t get tight dry skin. It foams a little more than the Neogen, but sinks in quickly. I think next purchase I will compare with the Purito Unscented Centella Toner which uses 10% centella extract versus 20% “leaf water”.
Serum: Purito Centella Unscented Serum iUNIK Propolis Vitamin Synergy Serum
tl;dr: i miss u puritooo
NGL, the packaging on the iUNIK is gorgeous (I will be refilling it with other products for sure) & it has a solid ingredients list. But it is way too hydrating for my skin, especially in this summer heat, and I end up getting oily. This would be a much better choice for winter or if your skin is generally drier. This could be due to AC use or putting MCT oil on my hands, I will continue testing with more controls. It is nice & soothing on my eczema though .The Purito has a bit of a zingy, almost painful, but not irritating feel. It is excellent at letting me forget I have oily skin; when I don’t use it, I get some whiteheads, when I do use it, my skin looks and feels really good the next morning. It is also moisturizing enough I have not needed additional moisturizing or hydrating layers. I’ve experimented with switching back & just trying to avoid getting it on my hands. I also purchased a mini of the iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum, which I have not yet tried on my face, but it does not seem nearly as hydrating as the Purito, and it also relies on leaf water rather than extract.
Occlusive: CosRX Oil Free Ultra-Moisturizing Lotion with Birch Sap iUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream UPDATE
tl;dr: UPDATE: It's a decent swap
Both the Purito & iUNIK serums are sufficient in this summer heat, so I am not using an occlusive on my face. I might be getting reactively oily because of using AC to deal with this 36+ degree weather. I have been using the iUNIK on my hand & it seems to be decent. The CosRX is not Malassezia safe, so I can’t compare them in that regard. Buuut, I think the CosRX is better. I tried the iUNIK cream on my face today, and it has a great lightweight texture with a velvety finish that works well for oily skin. I wish it had birch sap, but I’m happy it has centella & it feels like a good swap.
Things I’m still using:
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CosRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid: It’s a bit strong for my face, so I rinse it off after letting it sit a few min & my skin is definitely smoother. Also works nicely to remove dead skin from my eczema.
CosRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid: Helps with the sebaceous filaments, especially since I’ve switched to a cleanser without BHA. Sucks the oil right from my skin though, so must avoid contact with eczema.
Melano CC Intensive Anti-spot Essence: I mix this into my toner step in the morning, on sunny days. Direct application seems to cause whiteheads or peeling.
Petitfee Black Pearl & Gold Eye Patch: These continue to be great when I am super tired although I haven’t needed them as much when I use the Purito serum. In fact, despite their intense fragrance, I have convinced several people to buy them after trying them.
Banila Co Clean It Zero Purity Cleansing Balm: This is not malassezia safe & I have to thoroughly wash my hands after using it. It’s just really good at pulling the grits from my pores and an absolute must use after sunscreen.
Dear Klairs Soft Airy UV Essence: Also not malassezia safe, but I try to avoid getting it on my hands. It definitely increases my sebum production. I am going to try the Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun next, which is very similar but has centella.
Other changes, relating to my eczema:
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I’ve begun using the Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion (refill pouch) to hydrate my eczema, combined with MCT oil (the only safe Malassezia oil) and the Hada Labo Gokujyun Perfect Gel (refill pouch) for emollient & occlusive. I’m also washing my hands with low PH soaps , regularly removing all dead skin flakes using AHA (seems to reduce the itching and recurrence), and switched to a shampoo with miconazole (also made by Rohto & from a refill pouch) which has absolutely helped with the SD but the smell . It appears to be healing and not returning to weeping stage, with significantly less itching, but dries out very easily and needs reapplication after any contact with water. I’ve had to use lidocaine to handle when I just can’t get it to stop itching and I need to sleep, since since my prescription fluocinonide ointment is fully occlusive and that just makes the itching worse.
Conclusion: The main thing that stands out to me about the iUNIK are the glass dropper bottles, which I will reuse for the Purito stuff (which comes in plastic, too bad no refill pouch). CosRX, Purito, and Rohto continue to be great budget friendly winners with solid ingredients and results. The iUNIK toner is good (although I still want to compare with the Purito toner), and the cream is a good swap for CosRX’s oil-free lotion if malassezia is an issue. For my face I am regularly using between 3-5 products per day plus sunscreen when going outside. I still have the other products I mentioned in previous posts, and while they are good, I probably won’t need to use them until winter, at which point I’ll consider whether to repurchase.
that was a long post!