I’ve been trying to figure out where to get a metal and glass desk, preferably L shaped, and there are a seemingly infinite number of models… many from the same manufacturers… with dozens of names and reviews. Then when you want specific details, they seem to be pretty lacking. Sadly I haven’t found a decent aggregator yet to actually track what stuff is supposed to cost and who actually makes quality stuff.
Your’e going to have to go look at desks in person.
Original thread from the old forum:
https://forum.frontrowcrew.com/discussion/8355/what-does-your-desk-look-like
Company move to a new office. Today is the first day. Finished setting up. Was able to fit all my crap with room to spare. I need some magnets and biz for the metal panel on the right.
Or another monitor? Screen game looking kind of weak.
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I don’t need more than two.
my battle station at my new job, 3 monitors is one more than I need I think, but it helps sometimes.
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I too have 3 but I feel like I need 6 simply because the number of things I need to regularly monitor simultaneously. 2 chat programs (we are transitioning), a trade feed, outlook, and then you know actually doing things in browser and whatnot in my center screen. Ideally I’d use the 3 additional screens as dedicated workspaces (one for SSMS, one for TOAD, one as a general use screen for command line sessions and RDP to servers and vms. I can work with 3 screens but there is a lot of shuffling and if I’m doing 2 app work then as one of my keep an eye on thigns screens has to be covered.
Side note, anyone got any good virtual screen splitter recommendations for windows? Preferably free ware?
Important Question: Where’s your chair? 
I took the Aeron chair home. At work they gave us a Hayworth Fern chair. It’s quite good, but definitely at least a tier or two below Aeron/Freedom.
If you end up not wanting/need that aeron, I might buy it from you for Emily.
I’m having such trouble finding an office chair that’s adjustable and not some racing rgb bullshit. Don’t know enough about what good to tell the quality apart from the gimmick. All I want is ergonomics and foldable arms, which I find either one or the other.
All the good ones are expensive as fuck. You can get cheaper imitation ones, but they aren’t as comfortable and extremely poorly manufactured. They will fall apart under any amount of heavy usage. Imitators also lack all the features of the real deal. It’s not like with counterfeits in some other product categories where you can’t tell. The difference is night and day.
If you can’t afford the best chairs, you can find older models used on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, eBay, etc.
There are a few top flight brands out there, but Herman Miller really dominates these days.
The reason the gaming chairs make so much money is that they are basically complete crap. They’ve managed to use marketing and a target audience other things to get the margins up compared to “real” chairs. Same reason that you buy a gaming headset and it’s way more expensive than a vastly superior headphones and mic for normal purposes.
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Not sure if this is the best place for this… I want a 79" tall Billy Bookcase. I live in an apartment and don’t have children. Real talk: Do I really need to use wall fasteners and have to deal with the security deposit?
Honestly, I’d recommend it. Books don’t distribute weight evenly. And really, it’s pretty easy to patch and paint those holes so that nobody knows they were ever there. Bit of spackle, sand it smooth, few licks of matching paint, all sweet.
If you don’t live in a place with earthquake activity you should be fine. Just load your heaviest stuff on the bottom shelf to keep it stable
This has been a helpful conversation so far then. Schrodinger’s rawl plugs.
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I have cats, I don’t have my Billy’s anchored but I do have floor shims to ensure that the billy is level across its width and that it is canted slightly backwards (probably like 5% or less). A fully loaded Billy is perfectly stable if you don’t have to worry about a child clambering it.
Unless you are only putting the lightest of loads, like a bunch of small models or something, then you should absolutely anchor them to the wall.
Do not worry about the security deposit. You are allowed to drill holes in the wall and have normal wear and tear. The landlord can only come after your security deposit for abnormal damage. For example in college we saw the drunken neighbors literally punch a huge hole in the wall. Like a hole you could step through. Most things that are crazy enough to be able to go against your deposit are the kinds of things your renter’s insurance would cover unless you did them on purpose.
Also, don’t be afraid to do it yourself. It’s extremely easy. I’ve done it several times. One anchor per shelf is enough. Doesn’t even need to go into a stud. A very basic drywall anchor will get the job done. I have several very heavy BILLY bookcases with height extensions, each fully loaded with heavy books, and they are all extremely secure.
You also don’t need to buy the super strong anchors. My bro at Project Farm shows you which ones are strongest, but those snaptoggles are absolutely insane overkill. Like using a space shuttle to go to the grocery store.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M
Just get this normal kind from the local hardware store.
Even if you do anchor them, the ideas from the other commenters are also good advice. Heavy stuff on the bottom. Make sure the shelves are leaning backwards or at least level. Also the moldings in my apartment are very high. I had to do some sawing on the back of the shelves to get them to clear the molding and be flush with the wall.
Even if they would never fall without the anchor, it gives great peace of mind to have it. You can just go to the shelves and put stuff on and off without even thinking of it falling.
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